Why the Midwest needed new grapes
Classic European wine grapes (Vitis vinifera) such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay struggle where winter temperatures fall well below zero. For decades that limited winemaking in much of the Upper Midwest. Breeders crossed vinifera with hardy native North American grape species to create vines that could survive harsh winters and ripen in short summers.
The varieties to know
- Marquette (red): released by the University of Minnesota in 2006. Cherry, black pepper and herbal notes, with bright acidity and moderate tannin. Often compared in spirit to Pinot Noir.
- Frontenac (red): released in 1996. Deep color, dark cherry fruit and high acidity. Also used for rosé and port-style wines.
- La Crescent (white): released in 2002. Aromatic, with apricot, citrus and tropical notes, often made off-dry.
- Brianna (white): tropical and pineapple-like aromas, popular in Iowa, Nebraska and Wisconsin.
- Itasca (white): a newer University of Minnesota release with lower acidity than many cold-climate whites.
What they taste like
The common thread is acidity. Cold-climate grapes often keep high acid levels even when fully ripe, which makes the wines lively and food-friendly. Some producers leave a little residual sugar to balance that brightness, so you will see a range from bone-dry to semi-sweet. Read the label or ask in the tasting room.
Other hybrids you will meet
Older French-American hybrids are also common across the Midwest, Northeast and Mid-Atlantic: Chambourcin, Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc, Chardonel and Maréchal Foch. Norton, a native American grape, has a long history in Missouri and Virginia. The Guide’s Chicago, Great Lakes and New England chapters include several of these.
How to explore them
Try a dry Marquette next to a Pinot Noir and notice the difference in acidity and spice. Then taste a La Crescent next to a Riesling. Use the “Cold-climate grapes” quick start in the Guide to find examples by region.
Questions people ask
Are hybrid grapes lower quality than vinifera?
No. They are different. Quality depends on site, farming and winemaking. Many hybrid wines are thoughtfully made and distinctive.
Why are many Midwest wines a little sweet?
High natural acidity can taste sharp on its own. A touch of sweetness balances it, much as it does in many German Rieslings.
Can cold-climate grapes make sparkling wine?
Yes. Their bright acidity suits sparkling wine well, and several Midwest and New England producers make sparkling cold-climate wines.