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Beer styles

Lager is not boring: a field guide to helles, pilsner and dark lager

Helles, German pilsner, Czech pilsner and dark lager explained: what makes each style different, what to look for when you taste and why lager takes patience.

By Published Updated 3 min read

02Journal No.

The short answer

Lager is a family of beers fermented with lager yeast at cool temperatures and then conditioned cold for weeks. That slow process gives lagers their clean, precise character. Helles leans toward soft bread-like malt, German pilsner is drier and more bitter, Czech pilsner is rounder with a fuller malt core, and dark lagers bring toasted bread and cocoa without heaviness.

What makes a beer a lager?

Brewers use two broad families of yeast. Ale yeasts work at warmer temperatures and often add fruity or spicy notes. Lager yeasts work cooler and more slowly, and they produce fewer of those byproducts. After fermentation, lagers are traditionally held cold for weeks, a step called lagering (from the German for “to store”). The result is a beer where malt, hops and water show through clearly. There is nowhere for flaws to hide, which is why many brewers consider a great lager one of the hardest beers to make.

Helles: the gentle one

Helles (German for “light” or “bright”) comes from Munich. Look for a pale gold color, a soft aroma of bread dough or crackers, a hint of floral hops and a clean, rounded finish. Bitterness stays in the background. Helles is a reminder that restraint can be delicious, and it is a great choice with roast chicken, pretzels or mild cheeses.

German pilsner: crisp and dry

German-style pilsners are pale, brilliantly clear and noticeably drier, with more hop bitterness and a snappy finish. Look for herbal, floral or lightly spicy hop aroma. The bitterness should feel firm and clean, not harsh, and should invite another sip.

Czech pilsner: rounder and fuller

The pilsner style began in the city of Plzeň in what is now the Czech Republic in 1842. Czech-style pilsners usually have a slightly deeper gold color, a fuller malt core and soft but generous bitterness from Saaz hops. Many are brewed with decoction mashing, a traditional technique where part of the mash is boiled and returned, which can add depth.

Dark lagers: color without heaviness

Czech dark lager, Munich dunkel and schwarzbier (black lager) look rich but often drink lightly. Expect toasted bread crust, cocoa or light coffee, and a clean, dry lager finish. If you assume dark always means heavy, these beers are a pleasant correction. They pair well with grilled sausages, roasted mushrooms and smoky dishes.

How to compare them

Taste a helles, a German pilsner and a dark lager side by side. Notice how bitterness rises from helles to pilsner, and how toastiness rises in the dark lager while the clean finish stays the same. The Guide’s beer tab lets you filter by the Lager & Pilsner and Dark Lager families in each region.

Questions people ask

Is lager lower in alcohol than ale?

Not necessarily. Most everyday lagers sit around 4.5 to 5.5 percent ABV, but strong lagers such as doppelbocks can be much higher. Strength depends on the recipe, not the yeast family.

Why do some lagers taste skunky?

Light can react with hop compounds in beer and create a “skunky” aroma. Brown bottles and cans protect beer better than clear or green glass.

What does “keller” mean on a lager label?

Kellerbier is an unfiltered lager, traditionally served young from the cellar. Expect a little haze and a softer, fresher character.